The Final Chapter: Last days in Vietnam

Making our way to HoiAn, we stopped at Lang Co Beach and despite the fame of China, I found Lang Co a more scenic. One of the highlights of HoiAn/DaNang is Marble Mountain. The legendary mountain is filled with marble that the locals use to make sculptures. Despite the flooding, I had the opportunity to climb the mountain and glistening marble embedded in the rock was impressive.

Finally arriving in HoiAn, the Hoang Trinh Hotel staff greeted me with a cup of homemade tea and coconut cookies. A cruise-like swan made from bath towels and rose petals covered the bedding. Despite the rain, I knew I wanted to see some of the sites before the Full Moon Festival that night. The picturesque town is a UNESECO site and the old buildings have been transformed into shops and restaurants. Some of the ancient houses remain and are available for touring.

The hotel staff all recommended Bale Well Restaurant and if I traveled the right way, it would have been easy to get to but of course my usual first day compass took me a long time to find. It was worth the aggravation as a traditional meal of rice paper rolls, pork pancake and other local specialties were placed in front of me. Keeping to tradition, I tried the local beer, the Laurie and found the lager to be one of my favorites along the trip. (Huda in Hue and Hanoi respectively)

That night, HoiAn was lit with lanterns and the city was filled with excitement celebrating the Full Moon. Lantern boats were set a float on the lake and wishes were made.  I ended the night with a drink and conversing with an Aussie couple while taking in the sights.

An early start brought me to Smile House, across the Japanese Bridge and to the city’s Central Market. Mistakenly I took the wrong bridge to the beach and found myself on my way to Cam Island. Through the pouring rain I preserved to the island and reaching the final turn, found a dead end! Although not the end I sought, I met locals along the way and saw an area that few venture during their Vietnam vacation.

Reaching to the city center, I spied the Blue Dragon that the Australian couple had recommended. Proceeds from their sales are donated to get Vietnamese children off the street and back to school. Landlow Bar/Restaurant provided a cool spot with a view and a buy one get one fresh fruit dacquiri not to be missed and I didn’t for the next two days!

Feeling refreshed, it was time to explore the Ancient Houses and temples. I have to admit, I was a sneaky tourist. The first time it happened was by accident but I was able to get into the attractions if I waited for a group to join. I feel a little guilty for my sneakiness but it was the end of my trip and funds were tight.

Back at the hotel, I prepared for the evening’s dinner. Our host would be the hotel manager who every Saturday throws a dinner party for her guests. The dinner party was a success and as the conversation and beer flowed we sampled some of the region’s popular dishes. A merry time was had by all and by the end of the evening we had new friends from London, New Zealand, Belgium, Bali and Switzerland.

The next day it was time to rent a motorbike to explore Cua Dia and AnBang Beach. On my way to the beach I had a scary situation so I need to take a minute to remark on the generosity, disparity, cruelty and warmness of the Vietnamese people and culture. Inopportune moments such as enjoying  a picturesque beach setting, you’ll be harassed to buy goods or to visit their shops but when you realize this is their livelihood you see things differently.

This isn’t to say I haven’t seen the cruelty firsthand as I had a woman chase me down while on the motorbike and runover a kitten in the process. Without blinking she continued her pursuit while I was horrified at the disregard of life in hopes of securing a sale.

Then there’s the beauty of the country and its people who will go out of their way to help you. I’ve had such generosity bestowed upon me when I’ve been lost or needed help and the tranquil beaches, rivers and picturesque scenery is such a contrast to the disparity felt.

Trying to erase the memory, I set out for Cu Dai Beach. I found the beach in disarray from the storm. It was off to AnBang Beach whose beauty remained.

While riding the bike, I was able to see the countryside. To end my gastronomic journey, I had to sample Miss Ly’s cuisine. The famed restaurateur’s fourth restaurant had opened to local acclaim is best described as elevated street food; the crispy shrimp pancake and caramelized pork belly didn’t disappoint. Conversation and drinks flowed will talking with an Australia couple for two hours before running back through the raindrops to pack and move on.

DaNang bound it would be two nights in the China Beach city before heading to Saigon. Despite the rain, I saw the seven bridges and loved the Dragon and toured the Cham Museum. On my way back, I got hopelessly lost and after walking around for hours stumbled upon a construction worker who gave me a ride back to my hotel.

That night the hotel recommended that I try their favorite Tan Restaurant with a hidden garden and delicious local menu. After a scrumptious meal, I strolled along the river and crossed the bridges to view the city lights.

At breakfast, I met a Vietnam veteran who over scrambled eggs I learned was stationed in DaNang and returned to see how the country turned out. Meeting him reminded me of how my dad was almost drafted. His draft number was called and when reached the front of the line, the quota was filled. The person before him went to war while he was spared and how close I was to have lost him. After a soul searching breakfast it was time to hit the beach, first DaNang and then China.

I started the 6K trek before 9am to hopefully beat the heat and despite the inclement weather, the beaches were beautiful. Of course being me, I had to add some craziness to my trip so I set out to climb the 20K to reach the Lady on the Hill White Pagoda. The pristine pagoda and breathtaking  city view made it worth the journey. Heading down, a kind local drove me not only down the mountain but all the way back to my hotel.

Good Morning Vietnam and on to Saigon or so I thought as my flight was cancelled. Thankfully I was rebooked on the next one. Thanks to friends warnings I knew to take Viet A Sun (government taxis) and arrived at Diep Anh Guesthouse by noon. I was a bit apprehensive when I saw the creepy corridor but I found the owners and room charming. Diep gave me a suggested itinerary and I started with the War Remnants Museum and got in just under the wire for the last tour of the Independence Palace.  Both were spectacular in their own way, the first was haunting and the second, grandeur.

I found the majestic Notre Dame Cathedral similar to its namesake and ended up attending a Vietnamese mass. (mom stop laughing) Despite the language barrier, the service was spectacular and especially moving when the enchanting voices echoed through the halls.

That night I found a local favorite and they ended up giving me a discount to try their specialties. The next day brought an early start with an attempt to use Saigon public transportation. Now cabs are one thing but buses are another. I successfully boarded the right bus but when I arrived in Chinatown, no one spoke English and I wandered around aimlessly until I finally reached Binh Tay Market. I felt the city’s Ben Thanh Market was more welcoming and proceeded to spend three hours looking for the Giuc Lam Pagoda.

By the end of the trip I must have covered every inch of Saigon but I wasn’t giving up until I found it. It was impressive but it was a long way to reach its destination. Tiredly I made my way back to the hotel without any problems thanks to locals who helped me find the right bus.

My hotel suggested that I find a dinner cruise and when selecting my ship, I came across a familiar name, Indochina that a friend had recommended. I signed up for the cruise and it was a delicious and delightful way to take in the city lights.

October 25^th began early with a day trip out to explore Mekong Delta. As I was getting ready to leave my hotel, the manager came over to me and said they needed me to switch rooms before I left. Running up four flights of stairs, I threw everything into a bag and hoped I remembered to pack everything as they would move my stuff after the couple checked out. Running back down, an Australian couple was waiting and we chatted about teaching and traveling before leaving. Sadly we were to take different buses and had to say goodbye.

Three hours later the bus reached the boat that we’d take to the regional market. There are other floating markets around the world but Mekong Delta’s rumored to have the only market where local boats shop and are not just rolled out for tourists. We had lunch at a nearby homestay and then were rowed down the river. It was a scorching yet scenic sight.

I decided to treat myself that night to dinner at the Temple Club, a turnkey restaurant that was once a temple. A glass of champagne and prawns tamarind  was a wonderful way to sample the restaurant. I had the chance to converse with a Persian couple and we talked about our Vietnamese adventures.

I couldn’t believe that it was my last day in Vietnam; the two weeks passed quickly and all too soon it was time to head home.  District 3 was the day’s destination to tour the Emperor Jade and Xian Pagodas. What seemed to be a simple excursion turned into a five hour trek but I’m proud to say that I saw both temples!

To end my trip I visited The Refinery, another turnkey restaurant that was once an opium factory. An indulgent treat I splurged with a sea bass and then a warm chocolate ganache to close this trip’s chapter.

As I look back on my travels, it was a life changing adventure. I learned so much about myself and despite some challenges along the way I fell in love with the beautiful country and am looking forward to another visit.